Making Waves in Waikiki: Hawaii’s Surfing Heritage

The Hawaiians are credited with being the fathers of surfing, and are known to have practiced the sport as early as the 15th century AD. The Hawaiian name for surfing “He’enalu” – can be translated as wave sliding. During its early history, surfing was taken as a sacred practice and only those with a high social status could take part; in other words – Hawaiian kings and queens were surfers. Ironically, today, surfing is seen by the general population as a sport for those who have dropped out of society, the very opposite to how it began.

As a people living on a cluster of small islands in a very big sea, the Hawaiians were not surprisingly fascinated by the ocean, and attached great meaning to its moods and forms. In a similar way to which the Inuit are said to have many names for snow, the Hawaiians also have hundreds of words to describe the various forms of the ever changing sea.

Just as modern day surf bums insist on surfing as a lifestyle rather than just a sport and thus devote great portions of time and money to the pursuit of the waves, Hawaiians also found unfathomable bounds with the practise, as the writings of Kepelino Keauokalani, a 19th Century Hawaiian Scholar, shows in his observations of the local Hawaiian surfers:

“All thought of work is at the end, only that of sport is left. The wife may go hungry, the children, the whole family, but the head of the house does not care. He is all for sport, that is his food. All day there is nothing but surfing. Many go out surfing as early as four in the morning: men, women, children.”

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5 Reasons Why Surfing Keeps You Young

Surfing

It is a well known fact that staying active helps keep you looking and feeling young. Not many activities come close to the effect surfing has on the mind, body and spirit. According to experienced surfers, the special bond the surfer has with their surf board and the open ocean is almost impossible to explain.


Fresh Air


Fresh air does a body good! Surfers all over the world enjoy lots of cool, refreshing fresh air and sunshine. No matter if you’re surfing a remote location or something closer to the city, the ocean air smells fresh and clean. Out on the surf, there’s virtually no smog. When you are on the waves, it’s just you, the water and the fresh air.


Stress Free


Out in the swells, you can let your stress and every-day worries float away with the tide. Out there, it’s just you, the breeze, your board and the water. No one yelling for help or that report you should have handed in already. When you’re out there, you’re surrounded by total peace and relaxation. The only sounds are the sounds of the wind lightly kissing your skin and water slapping against your surfboard.


According to the majority of surfers, this type of relaxation is hard to come by anywhere else in the world. Just a few hours of surfing a week can help release the tension that builds up at home or in the workplace.


Muscle Tone


Surfing and swimming go hand in hand and are great exercise. Swimming works muscle groups you don’t always think to work at the gym. Sometimes even seasoned athletes will complain of muscle fatigue after swimming simply because of the different muscles being used.

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Surfing Lessons: an Hour Well Spent

Surfing

It’s perfectly acceptable and, actually, highly recommended to take a surfing lesson when you’re just picking up the sport. You might think surfing is logical and that you will have the natural ability to pick it up right away, but the reality is that surfing is a very awkward sport when you first start out and there are tons of little tips that you can acquire only from a surf instructing professional.

Surf lessons can be private or in groups and last for about an hour. You will likely ride on a completely foam board that is nearly 10 feet long and very lightweight, which catches waves easily and gives you a lot of float. Most surf schools guarantee that you will stand up on a wave. If you don’t, you can usually come back for another lesson for free until you do. It might appear unnecessary and dorky, but a beginning surf lesson will likely accelerate your surfing ability more than the trial and error of learning on your own. If you go it alone, your learning curve will likely be slower, more painful, and in some cases more dangerous.

Another thing you must keep in mind is that friends who surf are not the same as surf instructors. Some of your friends may have been surfing for years, but if you ask them to go surfing with you to help you learn, they could well be worse than your least favorite middle school teacher. You and your experienced surfing friends might paddle out together, but your friends might leave you treading water at the lineup while they’re catching all the waves.

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Stand-up Paddle Surfing – Duke Kahanamoku Ocean Fest, Hawaii, Waikiki

Surfing

 

The Ladies Surf in Style in this year’s Duke Kahanamoku OceanFest Stand-Up Paddle Surfing held August 22nd and 23rd at Queens surf spot in Waikiki.

C4 Waterman, Honolua Surf and Blue Planet hosted the Stand-Up events for the men, children (juniors) and women.

The sport has grown leaps and bounds. This year’s event had 80 SUP surfers.

“I’m not surprised at all, to be honest” said Todd Bradley, one of the founders of the C4 Waterman company. “From the start, everybody we turned on to the sport got hooked.  So to see all these kids and women and new-comers to the sport … I think its just the beginning.”

Stand-Up Paddle Surfing- also known as SUP is the latest and fastest growing ocean sport. It combines the basic elements of two ocean sports canoe paddling and long-board surfing.

Women surf the SUP with style

In 2007 C4 Waterman’s first year hosting an open SUP event and only one women who surfed along side the men was Maui’s Tiare Lawrence. Ms. Lawrence was of the first female to try SUP surfing. Ms. Lawrence as an outrigger canoe paddler and, short boarder, and Tiare was hand picked as the first top acrobatic performer in the Hawaiian version of Cirque de Soleil at the Ulalena Theatre. When I first saw her surf her C4 SUP surfing in big waves at Makaha, I was like whoa!  I had ridden big waves for years, but this was a new angle of riding waves and Tiare was charging full on with a classic style in big waves with the boys.

Ms. Lawrence said “The fitness aspect is so rewarding.”  When you go surfing you are lying down most of the time, so you work two times more muscles than surfing when you are doing SUP.”

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How to Get Fit for Surfing

Surfing

I own and run a surf travel company on Australia’s Gold Coast. My business basically pulls together all the services offered on the Gold Coast that a travelling surfer needs. We then go the extra step of renting our surfboards to our clients, for the duration of their holiday. The idea is simple, we want to ensure our clients have the surfing holiday of their life, without the hassle of sorting out the logistics when they arrive.

One of the great things about this business is I deliver the surfboards myself. This gives me the opportunity to have a brief chat with every surfer coming through the Gold Coast using my services. I really enjoy this part of the business as being a surfer myself, I enjoy the contact with people who have a similar passion to mine. Also, it gives me the opportunity to get into the heads of my clients, so I can understand what their expectations are for their surfing holiday and can continually improve my services based on their desires.

“I wish I was a little bit fitter for this holiday”, so many of my clients tell me when returning their surfboards. This is the number 1 desire of the travelling surfers who use my services. The want a higher level of surfing fitness for their holidays. It makes sense really. When you go on a surfing trip, you end up surfing 2 – 3 times a day, which will probably equates to 4 – 6 hours a day in th water. This you do consistently over a period of 5 – 10 days. It is a lot of surfing. No matter how much you surf at home, you will be surfing more when on holiday.

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